Museo De Antropologia
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| The large concrete block entrance |
I recently went back to Mexico for a few days to escape the Los Angeles crazy-ness. With final projects and exams coming up, I was relieved to be able to go back home and unwind. While in Mexico, my American friend Charlie hit me up and asked me to take him to some of my favorite spots. For whatever reason the first place that came to mind was El Museo de Antropologia (Anthropology Museum) in Polanco. This museum is famous in Mexico City (and the world) for its impressive collection of Aztec, Mayan, Olmec and Tarahumara artifacts. It is also located in the heart of Mexico City, in the main avenue of Reforma, right next to one of the most well-known tourist attractions: El Lago y el Castillo de Chapultepec. It’s impressive collection and central locations make it the most visited museum in the city (with 2 million visitors every year!), but as I recently discovered, there is much more to appreciate about this place.
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| The semi-open courtyard with the column as a central fountain |
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| Some of the interior artifacts and statues |
When I was small, around 6 or 7 years old, I remember my mom taking me to the museum. At the time I was learning all bout the Aztecs in school, so to me the museum was eye-opening, as I learned more about their rituals, customs and lifestyle. Yet the one memory I can still remember like it was yesterday is me playing and getting wet on the large fountain at the center of the courtyard while my mom looked from far away sipping a coffee. I never understood why that moment stayed with me, but once I went back I understood. Turns out the fountain is special, and instead of all the ancient artifacts from the museum, it’s architectural monumentality stands out as the centerpiece of the museum. It's what locals call "el paraguas" or "the umbrella".
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| The column's monumentality |
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| Close up of it's detailed carvings. Here is a Mayan jaguar. |
Let me explain.
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| My friend Charlie in the courtyard. |
Built in 1964 by Pedro Ramirez Vasquez, Jorge Campuzano and Rafael Mijares Alcerreca, the museum from the outside just looks like a big block hidden under trees, yet in the exterior the architecture is quite magical. As one enters into the main lobby, the presence of Mexican history is palpable as a large podium made up of volcanic rock elevates the user to read hymns and chants from past civilization engraved in the marble walls. Hymns invoking rain gods and working hands, they elevate the space to be more than just four walls, but a space that translates importance and tradition. After the lobby, everyone must head to the open courtyard, which is the masterpiece of the museum. The first thing one sees is the large cantilevered roof that rests on a single column. The heated roof is square and covers just have of the colossal courtyard, creating a sense of enclosure while still being outside. It’s geometry also allows for an amazing view of the “newer” Mexico, as high-tech buildings can be seen in the back. The juxtaposition of this skyline with he rest of the museum is meant to represent just how far the Mexican people have evolved, and how the past, present, and future can mix together. This column is carved out of stone with images from past gods, Aztec sacrifices, people playing “juego de pelota”, and an eagle sitting on cactus. All of these images are fundamentally Mexican, evoking a sense of proudness and elevating our history. The column is surrounded by hidden drains, that help evacuate the water dropping from the ceiling. The monumentality of the column is key to understand why the architecture is the masterpiece of the museum, and why it is imprinted in my memory.
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| Tlaloc statue |
Unlike many museum I know, the architecture of El Museo de Antropologia is an homage to the subject it showcases. It’s unassuming design elevates the architecture, and turns it into the subject itself. This humble structure is evoking the values of the old civilizations, and by doing so it stands out as the most important vessel.
